Few safety precautions:
a) Never touch the element or tip of
the soldering iron.
They are very
hot (about 400°C) and will give you a nasty burn.
b)
Take great care to avoid touching
the mains flex with the tip of the iron.
The iron should
have a heatproof flex for extra protection. An ordinary plastic flex will melt
immediately if touched by a hot iron and there is a serious risk of burns and
electric shock.
c)
Always return the soldering iron to
its stand when not in use.
Never put it
down on your workbench, even for a moment!
d)
Work in a well-ventilated area.
The smoke formed
as you melt solder is mostly from the flux and quite irritating. Avoid
breathing it by keeping you head to the side of, not above, your work.
e)
Wash your hands after using solder.
Traditional solder
contains lead which is a poisonous metal
Treatment
for minor burns
Most burns from
soldering are likely to be minor and treatment is simple:
• Immediately
cool the affected area under gently running cold water.
Keep the burn in
the cold water for at least 5 minutes (15 minutes is recommended). If ice is
readily available this can be helpful too, but do not delay the initial cooling with cold water.
• Do not apply
any creams or ointments.
The burn will
heal better without them. A dry dressing, such as a clean handkerchief,
may be applied if you wish to protect the area from dirt.
• Seek medical
attention if the burn covers an area bigger than your hand.
Preparing the soldering iron:
a)
Place the soldering iron in its
stand and plug in.
The iron will
take a few minutes to reach its operating temperature of about 400°C.
b)
Dampen the sponge in the stand.
The best way to
do this is to lift it out the stand and hold it under a cold tap for a moment,
then squeeze to remove excess water. It should be damp, not dripping wet.
c)
Wait a few minutes for the
soldering iron to warm up.
You can check if
it is ready by trying to melt a little solder on the tip.
d)
Wipe the tip of the iron on the
damp sponge.
This will clean
the tip.
e)
Melt a little solder on the tip of
the iron.
This is called
'tinning' and it will help the heat to flow from the iron's tip to the joint. It
only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while
soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge.
You are now ready to start soldering
a)
Hold the soldering iron like a pen,
near the base of the handle.
Imagine you are
going to write your name! Remember to never touch the hot element or tip.
b)
Touch the soldering iron onto the
joint to be made.
Make sure it
touches both the component lead and the track. Hold the tip there for a few
seconds and...
c)
Feed a little solder onto the
joint.
It should flow
smoothly onto the lead and track to form a volcano shape as shown in the
diagram. Apply the solder to the joint, not the iron.
d)
Remove the solder, then the iron,
while keeping the joint still.
Allow the joint
a few seconds to cool before you move the circuit board.
e)
Inspect the joint closely.
It should look
shiny and have a 'volcano' shape. If not, you will need to reheat it and feed
in a little more solder. This time ensure that both the lead and track
are heated fully before applying solder.
Using
a heat sink
Some components,
such as transistors, can be damaged by heat when soldering.
It is wise to use a heat sink clipped to the lead between the
joint and the component body, as shown in the picture.You can buy a
special tool, but a standard crocodile clip works just as well and is
cheaper!
|
|
It
is very tempting to start soldering components onto the circuit board straight
away, but please take time to identify all the parts first. You are much less
likely to make a mistake if you do this!
a) Stick
all the components onto a sheet of paper using sticky tape.
b) Identify
each component and write its name or value beside it.
c) Find
Resistor values using below given colour
code
.
d) Capacitor
values can be difficult to find because there are many
types with different labeling systems!
Some components require special care
when soldering. Many must be placed the correct way round and a few are easily
damaged by the heat from soldering. Appropriate warnings are given in the table
below, together with other advice which may be useful when soldering.
For projects it is best to put the components onto
the board in the order given below:
TABLE
|
Component
|
Picture
|
Reminders
and Warnings
|
|
(DIL
sockets)
|
|
Connect
the correct way round by making sure the notch is at
the correct end.
Do NOT put the ICs (chips) in yet. |
|
|
No
special precautions are needed with resistors.
|
|
|
Small value capacitors
(usually less than 1µF) |
|
These
may be connected either way round.
Take care with polystyrene capacitors because they are easily damaged by heat. |
|
(1µF
and greater)
|
|
Connect
the correct way round. They will be marked with a + or
- near one lead.
|
|
|
Connect
the correct way round.
Take care with germanium diodes (e.g. OA91) because they are easily damaged by heat. |
|
|
|
Connect
the correct way round.
Transistors have 3 'legs' (leads) so extra care is needed to ensure the connections are correct. Easily damaged by heat. |
|
|
Wire Links
between points on the circuit board.
|
single
core wire
|
Use
single core wire, this is one solid wire which is plastic-coated.
If there is no danger of touching other parts you can use tinned copper wire, this has no plastic coating and looks just like solder but it is stiffer. |
|
Wires
to parts off the circuit board, including switches,
relays,
variable resistors
and loudspeakers.
|
stranded
wire
|
You
should use stranded wire which is flexible and plastic-coated.
Do not use single core wire because this will break when it is repeatedly flexed. |
|
|
Connect
the correct way round.
Many ICs are static sensitive. Leave ICs in their antistatic packaging until you need them, then earth your hands by touching a metal water pipe or window frame before touching the ICs. Carefully insert ICs in their holders: make sure all the pins are lined up with the socket then push down firmly with your thumb. |
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